Accessories Special: Hand painted silk scarves

Text and photos: 
Joanna Read Cotter

I have been an artist my entire life, and discovered silk painting by chance. It’s created so much joy and vibrancy in my life that I’ve made it my mission to share it with the world!

Born and raised on a small-town farm in northern Massachusetts, I’ve had an inherent passion for art, nature and the outdoors my entire life. As a child I would fill journal upon journal with colorful illustrations and stories, and took great delight in entering every art competition I could find. 

I earned my BFA on art scholarship, graduating from The University of Massachusetts, Amherst in 2007 with a degree in painting. My thesis show,  “Bringing to Light”, consisted of a series of life-sized charcoal figure drawings inspired by yoga. Shortly after graduating I discovered silk painting, and it’s colored my life with joy and positive energy ever since!

An avid yogini, crossfitter, foodie, and lover of life, I now live in a small farm town in Rehoboth, MA with my husband and three kitties, and I work by day to strengthen nonprofits in Providence, RI. When I’m not at my day job, you’ll most likely find me painting up a storm in my second-floor apartment, where my studio is located. I’ve exhibited in many local shows, and currently sell primarily via my online shop and through custom orders. Arrangements for studio visits can also be made on occasion.   

It all started when I was invited to tour the studio of acclaimed silk painter Judith Goetemann, who I had come to know through my work at the Rockport Art Association.  

One day I ventured over to visit her harbor front gallery, and she asked if I would like to take a peek at her upstairs studio. Climbing the stairs to see hundreds of vibrant, neatly stacked swatches of silk, various sketches and notes pinned caringly to her worktable, with shiny glass jars of dye lining the shelves --- it made my heart flutter, and, seeing how awe-struck I was with this behind-the-scenes glimpse into her work, she recommended a company based in CA, Dharma Trading, where I could get started. 

I ordered a beginner’s silk painting kit from them soon after.

Having previously worked for so long in black and white, I was immediately drawn to the vibrancy of colors in silk painting, and the mesmerizing way that the dyes could spread and travel throughout the fabric as if having a life of their own. The first moment my brush made contact with the shimmering silk awakened something in my soul, and following that day I set to work reading and learning as much as I could find about this magical medium.

I’ll admit that a LOT of sweat and tears went into the learning process – there are a fair amount of technicalities involved in silk painting, both in the actual application of dye as well as in making the dye permanently bond with the silk fibers, and I determinedly struggled my way through learning it all. In 2010 I started a blog,www.joyinmystudio.com, documenting many of my processes and learning experiences, in hopes that it might help others. 

Can you describe the steps you take in designing and creating a piece? I am sure our readers would love to know how silk scarves are manually painted.

That’s a great question! My process is just as important to me as the end result – it’s truly a moving meditation. I always start with white silk, and everything I make is painted freehand, without stencils or tracing, though occasionally I’ll carve my own stamps and use those. I custom blend all of my non-toxic silk dyes, and utliize various nontoxic media and methods to create shapes and patterns.

Some methods, like Serti, require pinpointed concentration, a very meticulous and steady hand, and a LOT of patience waiting for the resist lines to dry completely (otherwise, the lines get flooded, and the image gets lost).

Other methods, like soy wax batik, require fluidity and swift, intuitive, confidently placed brushstrokes. I find they complement each other nicely and are equally therapeutic. Once the painting is complete and the silk has dried completely, I steam it for four hours and later rinse it clean and iron it out.

I recently created a scarf with a GoPro camera mounted to my head and made a 2-part time-lapse video to walk my viewers through the process of how a scarf gets created from start to finish – including all of the work that goes into each piece after the painting is complete. I did this to allow my audience gain a better understanding of how each piece is a unique work of art, and to show them the love and care that goes into the process.  You can view it by clicking here.

My work draws from nature and the subconscious. I’m greatly inspired by surrounding myself in nature, and make it a priority to spend some time appreciating it each day. I have a very active imagination, am fascinated by dreams, and strongly believe in the power of color to promote healing by evoking particular moods and feelings. 

Tell me anything else you would like people to read about you as a designer and your work :)-

I’m also a mixed media artist - my paintings have been exhibited nationally and received recognition. I combine silk painting with pen & ink, wax, and solvent-free oil paints to create semi-realistic paintings primarily of animals I’m fascinated with. You can view some of my paintings here.

From a fashion standpoint, I’ve found that scarves have been a simple and elegant compliment to my low-maintenance lifestyle – and I love that there are so many possibilities for how to style them! My closet pretty much consists of a handful of wrinkle-resistant neutrals that set a blank canvas for my scarves for my corporate day job, and I play more with patterns and texture combinations on the weekends. 

This makes getting dressed in the morning a total breeze… though I’ll admit there are times when I have a really difficult time deciding which scarf to wear!

Also, I’m very grateful for the studio space I have now – but I do dream of one day having my own detached studio filled with natural light – with adequate workspace, a small showroom/gallery area, a loft for teaching art and yoga classes, and an outdoor garden filled with flowers, organic fruits, veggies and herbs, and a couple of beehives. Maybe even beautifully landscaped koi pond, too.. I like to dream big!

Joanna Read Cotter.

Breitling Emergency II

The world’s first wristwatch with a dual frequency locator beacon




Breitling has reaffirmed its pioneering role in the field of technical watches and instruments for professionals by creating the very first wristwatch with a built-in personal locator beacon (PLB).
The Emergency II is a high-tech gem equipped with a dual frequency transmitter compliant with the specifications of the Cospas-Sarsat international satellite alert system and serving both to issue alerts and to guide search and rescue missions.

Developed in conjunction with major scientific institutes, the Emergency II is distinguished by
numerous microelectronic and microtechnical innovations, including a revolutionary rechargeable battery, a miniaturized dual frequency transmitter and an unprecedented integrated antenna system – three features specifically developed for this model.

As the first ever wristworn dual frequency PLB, it establishes itself as a safety and survival instrument in all distress situations on land, at sea and in the air.

A Breitling stronghold

In 1995, Breitling struck a decisive blow in launching the first wristwatch with a built-in emergency microtransmitter.

Operating on the 121.5 MHz international air distress frequency, the Emergency was designed to enable accurate homing in on pilots or passengers following a plane crash. 

It was designed for constant wear on the wrist and thus as a complement to the standard onboard aircraft equipment.

The Emergency has been tested and worn in daily use by the finest aviation professionals and the world’s greatest aeronautical teams. 

It has proven its worth in many search and rescue exercises and has become synonymous with safety and reliability for pilots around the globe. Around 40,000 such watches have been sold, and these exceptional instruments for locating and rescuing people in danger have indeed already saved a number of lives.

Building on this successful and extensive experience, Breitling has achieved a new and unprecedented technical feat in presenting the Emergency II.

The Cospas-Sarsat system

The international Cospas-Sarsat system is based on a network of satellites in low- altitude earth orbit (LEOSAR) and in geostationary orbit (GEOSAR); it also comprises ground receiving stations as well as control and coordination 

centers. 

Its mission is to provide accurate and reliable distress alert and homing data. Supplying this information helps search and rescue (SAR) authorities provide fast and efficient assistance to persons in distress. Since its launch in 1985, the Cospas-Sarsat system has helped save more than 26,000 lives.

The maritime, aviation and land operations comprise three steps: alert, homing and rescue.

The alert and homing phases used the same 121.5 MHz analog frequency up until 2009, when Cospas-Sarsat decided that it would phase out satellite processing at 121.5 MHz frequency and that alerts would be triggered only on 406 MHz – a digital frequency able to offer enhanced security, to provide more comprehensive information and to reduce the number of false alarms.

The 121.5 MHz signal is nonetheless still received on land, by ships at sea and by airborne aircraft, and remains the most efficient and reliable system for homing in on victims. 

Distress radio beacons must thus be of the dual frequency type in order to guarantee accurate homing.

A major innovation

Breitling has once again distinguished itself in the vanguard of electronics by creating the Emergency II, the world’s first wristwatch equipped with a true dual frequency distress beacon. A high-tech miniature marvel, this peerless instrument belonging to the PLB (personal locator beacon) category is distinguished by its 

transmitter compliant with Cospas-Sarsat specifications and serving both to issue alerts and to guide homing and rescue operations. 

Representing the culmination of five years of development, the Emergency II called for avant-garde solutions that have contributed to the advancement of microelectronics and microtechnical 

engineering.

A survival instrument for 

all distress situations

As the first wrist-type dual frequency PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) and thus worn at all times, the Emergency II is intended for a wide range of users in a variety of fields around the world, including aviation, navigation, climbing, trekking, hiking, exploration, extreme sports, etc.

An innovative dual frequency transmitter

The Emergency II is equipped with a microtransmitter alternately operating on two separate frequencies over a 24-hour period. 

It transmits a first digital signal on the 406 MHz frequency intended for satellites and lasting 0.44 seconds every 50 seconds; as well as a second analog signal on the 121.5 MHz homing and rescue frequency, lasting 0.75 seconds every 2.25 seconds.

A miniaturization record

The development of this dual frequency transmitter specifically designed for the Emergency II was a major technical challenge, essentially due to its dimensions that had to be adapted to the wrist. 

Conducted in cooperation with an institute specializing in aerospace, defense and industry, it notably involved creating a new circuit exclusively dedicated to this instrument in order to be able to transmit on two frequencies and to do so within an extremely compact volume. 

The result is a record in terms of both miniaturization and guaranteed reliability, which lays down new benchmarks reaching well beyond the sphere of watchmaking.

An unprecedented antenna system

The Emergency II is notably distinguished by its ingenious and extremely user- friendly integrated antenna system. Its two extendable antenna “sections” housed in the lower part of the watch, are manually deployed on each side of the case. 

One of the main challenges consisted in finding a miniaturized device serving to transmit alternately on the two frequencies, with the antenna length varying according to the wavelength. 

Breitling therefore developed an original system in which, according to circumstances, the transmitter uses either part or the entirety of the two antennae – a major first on a locator beacon.

Ultra-simple handling

The beacon of the Emergency II was designed to simplify handling as much as possible. Deploying the antenna automatically activates the transmitter. To do this, the user must first unscrew and pull out the cap on the main antenna on the right- hand side of the case.

The cap automatically comes free of the antenna when it is deployed to the right length. This operation releases the cap of the second section, which the user can then deploy according to the same principle. A clear reminder of all the stages is provided by a series of inscriptions on the watch. Once the two antennae are deployed, all that remains is to ideally position the watch so as to guarantee the best possible transmission performance.

Controlling energy

The energy issue was a crucial element in developing the Emergency II. The Cospas- Sarsat prescriptions notably demand that beacons should be capable of transmitting for 24 hours. In addition to this requirement in terms of duration, the dual frequency transmitter features its own specific characteristics due to its alternate operation at very different power levels (30 mW for 121.5 MHz, and 3.2 W for 406 MHz, meaning more than 100 times higher) – a characteristic that entails atypical current draw. Not to mention the need to accommodate all this within a wristwatch.

A revolutionary rechargeable battery

After considerable research, it became apparent that the ideal solution was to opt for a rechargeable battery able to deliver more power than a standard battery. There was however no product of this type that matched the profile of the Emergency II. In collaboration with one of the cutting-edge institutes in this field, Breitling therefore developed a brand-new rechargeable battery specially created for this beacon-watch. A state-of-the-art product for storing energy and which has contributed to the advancement of research in this promising field.

A charger-tester for optimal security

To guarantee the reliability of the Emergency II in case of necessity, Breitling has also developed a charger-tester serving to periodically recharge the battery and then to automatically check the smooth operation of the transmitter.

A chronometer-certified multifunction 

chronograph

The Emergency II is not only a personal survival instrument. It is also an electronic chronograph featuring all the functions useful to professionals and adventurers: 12/24-hour analog and digital display, 1/100th second chronograph, alarm, timer, second timezone, multilingual calendar and battery end-of-life indication. 

It is equipped with a thermocompensated SuperQuartzTM movement ten times more accurate than standard quartz and chronometer-certified by the COSC (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute) – the highest industry benchmark in terms of precision and reliability. 

The “watch” and “transmitter” parts have been designed as two distinct elements, totally independent in terms of both operation and energy source and thus ensuring enhanced security.

A sturdy and technical design

The Emergency II has a highly complex case made from titanium, the favorite aeronautical metal that is at once sturdy, light, anti-magnetic, corrosion-resistant and nonallergenic. 

It comes with a choice of three dials – black, yellow or orange – and fitted with a titanium bracelet or rubber strap. The satin-brushed bezel is engraved with a compass scale accentuating its powerful, technical appeal. 

The sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides, along with the luminescent hands and numerals, guarantee optimal readability in any conditions. A peerless functionality for the world’s first wristwatch with a built-in dual frequency personal locator beacon.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS:

Movement: Breitling Caliber 76, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, thermocompensated SuperQuartzTM, 12/24-hour analog and LCD digital display, battery end-of-life indicator. 

1/100th second chronograph, timer, 2nd timezone, multilingual calendar 

Case: titanium. 

Resistance to 5 bars. 

Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. 

Bidirectional rotating bezel. 

Compass scale. 

Diameter 51 mm. 

Dials: Volcano black, Cobra yellow, Intrepid orange. 

Strap/Bracelet: rubber Diver Pro III / titanium Professional.

Accessories Special: Inmano Felted Scarves

Text and photos: Magdalena Spiewak.

I have always been tinkering with things for as long as I can remember. 

As a kid, I used to play with modeling clay and papier-mâché. My dolls and teddy bears would always wear little caps and socks that I knit or crocheted for them. 

When I grew a little older, I would remodel my ordinary skirts and sneakers into less ordinary ones. Even my poor furniture could not be left alone! I would always repaint it, rework it, repolish it, or simply convert it into something else. It was my mom who encouraged me to be creative and use my imagination, and it was my dad who taught me to love the various materials I work with (he can still make marvelous things out of wood).

I am a gardener by profession. And it seems that flowers have always been important. It is probably the reason why I like Art Nouveau so much. The colors and shapes, and the texture and structure can be very inspiring.

I love to travel, and Tuscany, Italy, is my favorite place on earth. No wonder I am a keen cook

and Italian cuisine is what I cook best. My recipes for pesto and tiramisu are just awesome! 

I hope that I will be able to brush up on my Italian, which is a little rusty.

Now, how do I work? Well, ideas take me by surprise. Continually. I collect them, sometimes take them down on slips of paper, and then work on them chiseling each one patiently. I work with great care and diligence. 

The items I make are best quality. I use pure silk and merino wool, the best materials available. 

I want every item to be original, beautiful, and, last but not least, functional. I have lots of fun, believe me!

I just play it by ear because this is exactly when my best ideas are being born, like my smart outfit for a carnival ball matching the color of my lime-turquoise frames, or the tree painted on a cracked wall in my dining room, or the teddy-bear cake made for my daughter’s birthday. 

I really do not know how it feels to be bored or to hang around doing nothing. 

I am resting while I am working. In total silence.

Magdalena Spiewak - Inmano Shop

For Men: Antiques

History is an important part of who and what we are in the present. As beautiful and innovative modern jewelry can be, antique and historical jewelry is unique and carries a lot of history behind, as you will see in the following pages.

The House of Romanov was the second and last imperial dynasty to rule over Russia, reigning from 1613 until the 1917 overthrow of the monarchy during the February Revolution.

The reign of Nicholas II (1894-1917) is associated with the zenith of the Russian decorative arts. After the fall of the Empire, a huge number of objects in precious metals were melted down to produce the first Soviet coinage. The bullion used to strike tens of millions of silver and gold coins between 1921 and 1924 had its primary source in confiscated silver and gold. This explains the rarity of gold and silver wares of the period on the market today in general, and of larger and heavier pieces in particular.

An unknown number of fine objects from private collections ended up in state museums. Almost everything of value, ranging from jewelry to books, went to the state vaults. 

The 1917 Revolution and the Civil War almost completely eradicated those items which displayed Imperial insignia, ciphers, and portraits of members of the Imperial family. In 1920’s and early 1930’s, the state, desperate for cash, organized a number of auctions at which porcelain, glass, bronze, carpets, books, and furniture from the Imperial palaces were sold to general public. For this reason, some pieces which belonged to the Imperial family are still available today.

Since 1998, Romanov Russia Ltd sold thousands of high-end Russian Imperial antiques and Faberge objects to private collectors, investors, art funds, and museums (including the Metropolitan in NY).

An interesting antique Russian silver cigarette case with gold and enamel appliques from the World War I period.  The case belonged to American Red Cross surgeon General Dr. Philip Newton.

At the beginning of the war, General Newton was in charge of American Red Cross ambulance truck shipments from US to Russia. Around 1915, he entered the Russian military service in the rank of a General. Interestingly, Philip Newton was the youngest General of the Russian Imperial Army at that time. He was 27 or 28 years old. General Newton served as a commander of the motorized Red Cross American brigade under the patronage of Grand Duchess Tatiana Nikolaevna (daughter of tsar Nicholas II). He personally knew Grand Duchesses, Empress Alexandra Feodorovna and Gregory Rasputine. 

Philip Newton received several Imperial Russian military awards, including St Anna sword with inscription FOR BRAVERY, Order of St Anna 3rd class with swords, Order of St Vladimir 4th class with swords.

On January 22, 1915, Philip Newton married Russian Princes Helen Shahofkaya, who volunteered to serve as a nurse in a Kievian hospital, which was operated by the American Society.

 They left Russia in the late 1917.

It was popular in the early 20th century, to decorate cigarette cases with small emblems which were meaningful to their owners. Such emblems were custom made by jewelers. 

The lid is applied in the center with a gold and enamel seal of Georgetown University (Washington, D.C.) flanked by enameled gold Russian and American flags, a gold cipher of Grand Duchess Tatiana Nikolaevna  (T and H beneath Imperial crown), two gold and red guilloche enamel crosses with swords of the Orders of St Anna and St Vladimir, a gold symbol of medicine - caduceus, and a gold American eagle.

Antique Russian Imperial Era Double Cufflinks made in St Petersburg between 1908 and 1917

These superb quality antique cufflinks are handcrafted in 56 zolotniks (14K) rose gold, and embellished with blue translucent guilloche enamel. 

Each enameled disc is set with a brilliant diamond. 

A Pair of Antique Gold Mounted Carved Malachite Cufflinks made in Russia between 1908 and 1917: 

A finely modeled gold, silver, silver-gilt, and enamel pendant (jeton) in the form of a parade helmet of the Life Guard Horse Regiment of His Majesty (czar Nicholas II was Colonel-in-Chief of the regiment), circa 1900. 

Antique Russian Imperial Presentation Gold Pocket Watch by Pavel Bure (Paul Buhre), circa 1899.

A Highly Important World War I Russian Imperial presentation GUN METAL cigarette case by Carl Faberge.

The lid is applied with a round gunmetal medallion and a silver Cyrillic monogram.

Apparently, this is the only known Faberge GUN METAL case with inscription WAR 1914. 

A Unique Russian Imperial Award Men’s Ring by Faberge. Given by the Empress Maria Feodorovna (mother of Tsar Nicholas II) in 1915.

The ring is designed in Russian MODERN style of the 1910s with a medieval Byzantine double headed eagle.

After the fall of the Byzantine empire in the 15th century, Russia adopted the Byzantine double headed eagle as its state emblem. Over the following centuries, the state eagle was modified several times, but in the 1910s, the original Byzantine eagle was revived in decorative arts.

The ring was made in St. Petersburg by Faberge’s workmaster Vladimir Solovyov.

Text and photos: RomanovRussia.com

Accessories Special: Rudman Felted Art

"About 7 years ago I saw on the Internet a picture of cute shaggy little mouse.

I couldn’t understand how it was made! It wasn’t made with any technique known to me.

It wasn’t sewn, knitted or glued.

I was very curious and I started looking for similar creations and discovered a whole new world of felting."

Irena Rudman has been making felted accessories for years now. Her pieces caught my attention, because they are like wearable paintings. The beautiful colors, the elegant shapes and details in all her accessories give them an almost surreal look, like out of a fantasy story.

Irena now lives in New York and she has been doing crafts and handiwork since her childhood: sewing, knitting, weaving, embroidery, beading and working with wire, macramé, and much more.

“At first I started to make felted toys, with time I began to make all kind of things with wool: flowers, brooches, scarves, bags, heats, shoes, belts and more.

Nowadays I am making only felted scarves. The reason for this is beacuse I love this accessory the most.

Creating scarves allows my imagination to go wild, allows me to be more creative than I would be with any other products.

I have created more than 1000 scarves and each one of them is unique, one of a kind item.

My great inspiration in work is nature.

Most of my ideas come to me while watching animals and plants.

Sometimes I would want to capture the colors of landscape, sometimes it would be the shape of natural objects.

I love working with colors and shades, and I pay significant attention to the texture as well.

The magnificent beauty of nature and the variety of colorful flowers, trees and her creatures are my constant and never-ending source of inspiration.

The power and the smell of sea, the rustling of the forest, birds singing , beauty of sunrises and sunsets - All this lays an indelible imprint on my work and reflected in the color palette.

Felting is a very time consuming process.

In average it takes me about 4 hours to create each scarf.

And that is without counting the dyeing and drying time.

And I have more complicated and time consuming scarves with 6 hours of continuous work, for example this blue butterfly scarf."

Recently Irena has been fascinated with the shibori technique - the Japanese art of dyeing.

Shibori is a Japanese term for several methods of dyeing cloth with a pattern by binding, stitching, folding, twisting, compressing it, or capping. Some of these methods are known in the West as tie-dye.

There is an infinite number of ways one can bind, stitch, fold, twist, or compress cloth for shibori, and each way results in very different patterns. 

Each method is used to achieve a certain result, but each method is also used to work in harmony with the type of cloth used. 

Therefore, the technique used in shibori depends not only on the desired pattern, but the characteristics of the cloth being dyed.

 Also, different techniques can be used in conjunction with one another to achieve even more elaborate results.

In Japan, the earliest known example of cloth dyed with a shibori technique dates from the 8th century; it is among the goods donated by the Emperor Shōmu to the Tōdai-ji in Nara.

Irena revives dying technologies while inventing new ones. She loves inventing designs and special felting techniques.

I’m using a lot of techniques, approaches, professional tweaks and secrets.

She is happy to share her knowledge and skills with students and gives them the opportunity to sell their work in a special section of her online store. You can also check our her website.

Sandra Kemppainen, Irena Rudman; 

Photos: Irena Rudman.

Accessories Special: Hats by Behida Dolic

BEHIDA DOLIC, hat designer is our special accessories feature in this issue. Her designs are unique, retro looking and they looks so comfortable to wear in the colder or intermediary seasons.

Her life story is very interesting. Although currently she lives in Hudson, NY, originally she was born in a small village in northern Bosnia. In 1998, she and many other refugees fled from the country and she moved to the U.S. with her brother and two sisters, as refugees of the Balkan War. 

“I sometimes feel that I have had two lives: my life in Bosnia and my lucky second chance in America. My early childhood was sweet and simple. My mother and father did not have much, but they were very creative and happy people. Everything we had was handmade, that was just the way of life.”

“Then the Balkan War in the ’90s changed my life and the lives of most Bosnians. My mother passed away when I was ten and my father died in the war when I was twelve. 

During the war years, life for me and most Bosnians was quite chaotic and always on the go. But then something magical happened, and we were given a chance to start a new life in America. 

At first it was difficult to adjust, but I slowly learned just how resilient we really are. Thanks to many episodes of The Golden Girls, I was able to learn my first English words. So, that is how it all began. Word by word, I put myself through school, worked and made new friends. I can proudly say that I have created the life I now have and I could not be more grateful for it.”

Apart from her creative work, Behide likes to do a lot of other things: play her accordion, take her dog, Dancho, on long bike rides. 

She has recently moved to Hudson, NY from San Francisco. Hudson is a really small town on the Hudson River, full of creative people and beautiful old architecture. On her days off, she usually strolls around to explore and admire its beauty.

“If I would ever write my memoirs, the title would be Make Magic With What You Have. This title illustrates how I go about crafting my art and my life. I learned early on how to make things out of very little. When I was a kid, we did not have any toys so I made my own out of mud, young corn and whatever else I could find. Throughout my life, this skill has come in handy. It has made me feel that in every place or situation, there is great potential for things to become what I need them to be.”

How did your business get started?

“In the beginning I had only one balsa wood block. At that time, I could not afford the millinery tools and other types of blocks. My only option was to make magic happen with the one block I had. 

I believe that not having everything a milliner is supposed to have has pushed me to be creative in how I go about making hats. That balsa block is now a sad looking thing, but I always have it on my work desk to remind me of how I started and what I can push myself to do using just the bare minimum. 

 It turns out that even after I did finally purchase a few other blocks and a millinery machine, I still hand-sew and hand-drape most of my hats.”

Where does your inspiration come from?

“My inspiration comes from old films, hats, cars, furniture and art deco architecture. These things are like candy to me. Sometimes I just go to antique malls and flea markets to see all the beautiful handmade things from a hundred or more years ago. 

I am always amazed by the quality and craftsmanship that went into making these objects.”

Who has been most influential in your craft?

“The list of people who have influenced my craft could stretch all the way from Bosnia to New York, but I must say that my sisters are a huge influence on where I am today. Especially my younger sister, Besima. She has always cheered me on and encouraged my creative journey. Her support is especially important to me because she understands what it means for me to have a career as an artist. We came from a place where most women don’t have any education, and definitely don’t make their living as artists.”

When did you know you were an artist/maker?

“I never knew how to be anything other than a maker. It took me a long time to realize that there are people who don’t like making things, but the word “artist” did not really enter my vocabulary until I was in America. It was liberating to finally have a word for my compulsive behavior.”

How would you describe your creative process?

“Ideas come to me at random times, and I’ll sketch them out so that I can remember them. Then, after closing my shop, I rush to my studio where the process starts with a strong cup of tea, accompanied by some pins and felt. From there on, I have no idea what will happen. All I know is that at 3 a.m. I have a hat that I think is the best one yet. Occasionally, the next day I realize that maybe it’s a little too far from being the best hat ever, but then I just start all over again.

If you could peek inside the studio of any artist, designer or craftsman (dead or alive), who would it be?

“I would pay a visit to the fabulous Edith Head. The woman was brilliant in so many ways. I would love to have coffee with her so I can ask her all sorts of questions.”

What handmade possession do you most cherish?

“I have inherited a beautiful handmade 1800s loveseat from my dear friend. I love this piece of furniture for sentimental reasons, and also for its appearance. The beautiful red upholstery, which has faded over time, tells a story. I will definitely cherish this work of art all my life.”

Where would you like to be in ten years?

“I would like to make sure that I feel strong and happy. I would like to have two sheep, five chickens, my dog, a small home and my lovely hat shop. And perhaps the love of my life.”

“Handmade to me means a reaction from a stranger that goes something like this: ”Oh my God, where did you get that beautiful thing?” Then we both smile and the answer is mutually understood.”

Sandra Kemppainen, Behida Dolic; 

Photos: Robert Socha; 

Model: Helena Martin.